A Big Twin's Powertrain is a non-unitized design. And that is, the gearbox is positioned apart from the engine, meaning the two should work side by side so that it can transfer power. That's where the primary drive, inside that huge aluminum case next to the rider's left boot, comes into play.
From the name itself, the main drive is the initial transfer point of power coming from the engine to, ultimately, the backend wheel. Alternating power which is produced through the engine's crankshaft is changed into revolving power through the running main chain and sprockets that rotate the transmission's input shaft. After the power recollects inside the transmission it's spread from the gears and inside the secondary drive, that is the chain or belt drive that rotates the motorcycle rear end tire. This is often a simple description of a Harley powertrain, and, as you can see, every section plays an integral part in moving you and the bike around the highway.
Given the fact that powertrain is made up of a series of moving parts, you're going to have to render periodic adjustments to them to make sure they will work properly. In time, movable parts, such as the main drive's sprockets and chain, break. As it degrades, they require adjustment to help maintain correct tolerance. And it's the main driver's multi-row roller chain that must be checked and tweaked once in a while. It's a fairly clear-cut procedure, at the same time, a method that can be done within your garage area or shop.
Most of the action happens inside the inspection window that's reached by taking off the plate placed on by four mounting bolts. You'll need a ruler to make the measurements and a set of essential tools to perform the corrections. To adjust, release the adjusting shoe's 9/16" bolt a couple of turns and move the shoe upwards to tighten the chain or down to loosen.
An excellent time to inspect and adjust the main chain is when you ought to drain and change the primary case oil. Harley highly suggests its multipurpose manufactured oil, however, if you do have a desired brand that's been designed for the main drive, at all cost, use it. Just make sure no matter what lubricant you decide is designed for this purpose.
Once the inspection plate is off, you've got a decent look at the chain's parts, so makes use of the time to visually inspect them for corrosion. Take a look at the chain's rollers to see if they are getting total oiling, and check the adjuster shoe for cracks and the like. Inspecting and adjusting the main chain is quick and easy, when you're done you can have one less component to worry about on your next ride. Be sure you to change the inspection plate gasket.
Things You'll Need:
Pipe sealant Pan for Draining T27 Torx T40 Torx 9/16" deep socket Ratchet Ratchet extension Measuring Stick or Ruler
1. Standard maintenance such as adjusting the main chain can be carried out within your own garage area or shop when changing the main oil. Make sure the motorcycle is fixed in an upright position when you begin.
2. One thing to do is to drain the primary case of its used fluid. Once a drain pan is placed underneath the primary, have a T40 Torx to remove the drain plug which is found underneath the derby cover.
3. Allow the old primary fluid to empty into the pan. As it drains, you can inspect the main chain to see if it needs adjustment.
4. Use a T27 Torx socket to take out the 4 mounting bolts that secure the primary inspection plate in position. It's a good idea to change the inspection plate gasket before you install the plate.
5. With the inspection plate removed, you can look at the chain's rollers for wear. Also, check them for hints of deterioration. With the transmission in neutral, have the engine spin a few turns to inspect the whole chain.
6. Measure the chain in several places and try to take two readings each time. One is with the chain's top run at slack. For the other, the ruler is raised against the top run to take off the slack and to measure once again. The main difference in the 2 on the chain's tightest point is definitely the chain's slack.
7. Select a 9/16" deep socket to adjust the chain's free play. While the chain is cold, fix the free play between " and 7/8". Once you've tightened the nut again, measure the slack again just to be sure you have set up the proper amount.
8. Since the inspection plate is open, also examine the adjuster shoe that is pushing against the chain's under run. On the upper right corner, you'll find the adjustment nut.
9. Not like the engine and transmission drain plugs, there's no O-ring on the primary case drain plug. To help seal it, apply some pipe sealant along the bottom edge of the bolt.
10. Soon after you're done clearing off all the oil out of the primary cover, reinstall the primary case drain plug. When already set, slightly twist the bolt's from the inspection plate as well as the derby cover bolts to 108 in-lbs.
11. You may now refill the main case with fresh new fluid. Generally shops use lube from a common source instead of retailed cans.
12. Fill in 32 ounces of fluid. Put in the proper amount for your bike's model and year.
From the name itself, the main drive is the initial transfer point of power coming from the engine to, ultimately, the backend wheel. Alternating power which is produced through the engine's crankshaft is changed into revolving power through the running main chain and sprockets that rotate the transmission's input shaft. After the power recollects inside the transmission it's spread from the gears and inside the secondary drive, that is the chain or belt drive that rotates the motorcycle rear end tire. This is often a simple description of a Harley powertrain, and, as you can see, every section plays an integral part in moving you and the bike around the highway.
Given the fact that powertrain is made up of a series of moving parts, you're going to have to render periodic adjustments to them to make sure they will work properly. In time, movable parts, such as the main drive's sprockets and chain, break. As it degrades, they require adjustment to help maintain correct tolerance. And it's the main driver's multi-row roller chain that must be checked and tweaked once in a while. It's a fairly clear-cut procedure, at the same time, a method that can be done within your garage area or shop.
Most of the action happens inside the inspection window that's reached by taking off the plate placed on by four mounting bolts. You'll need a ruler to make the measurements and a set of essential tools to perform the corrections. To adjust, release the adjusting shoe's 9/16" bolt a couple of turns and move the shoe upwards to tighten the chain or down to loosen.
An excellent time to inspect and adjust the main chain is when you ought to drain and change the primary case oil. Harley highly suggests its multipurpose manufactured oil, however, if you do have a desired brand that's been designed for the main drive, at all cost, use it. Just make sure no matter what lubricant you decide is designed for this purpose.
Once the inspection plate is off, you've got a decent look at the chain's parts, so makes use of the time to visually inspect them for corrosion. Take a look at the chain's rollers to see if they are getting total oiling, and check the adjuster shoe for cracks and the like. Inspecting and adjusting the main chain is quick and easy, when you're done you can have one less component to worry about on your next ride. Be sure you to change the inspection plate gasket.
Things You'll Need:
Pipe sealant Pan for Draining T27 Torx T40 Torx 9/16" deep socket Ratchet Ratchet extension Measuring Stick or Ruler
1. Standard maintenance such as adjusting the main chain can be carried out within your own garage area or shop when changing the main oil. Make sure the motorcycle is fixed in an upright position when you begin.
2. One thing to do is to drain the primary case of its used fluid. Once a drain pan is placed underneath the primary, have a T40 Torx to remove the drain plug which is found underneath the derby cover.
3. Allow the old primary fluid to empty into the pan. As it drains, you can inspect the main chain to see if it needs adjustment.
4. Use a T27 Torx socket to take out the 4 mounting bolts that secure the primary inspection plate in position. It's a good idea to change the inspection plate gasket before you install the plate.
5. With the inspection plate removed, you can look at the chain's rollers for wear. Also, check them for hints of deterioration. With the transmission in neutral, have the engine spin a few turns to inspect the whole chain.
6. Measure the chain in several places and try to take two readings each time. One is with the chain's top run at slack. For the other, the ruler is raised against the top run to take off the slack and to measure once again. The main difference in the 2 on the chain's tightest point is definitely the chain's slack.
7. Select a 9/16" deep socket to adjust the chain's free play. While the chain is cold, fix the free play between " and 7/8". Once you've tightened the nut again, measure the slack again just to be sure you have set up the proper amount.
8. Since the inspection plate is open, also examine the adjuster shoe that is pushing against the chain's under run. On the upper right corner, you'll find the adjustment nut.
9. Not like the engine and transmission drain plugs, there's no O-ring on the primary case drain plug. To help seal it, apply some pipe sealant along the bottom edge of the bolt.
10. Soon after you're done clearing off all the oil out of the primary cover, reinstall the primary case drain plug. When already set, slightly twist the bolt's from the inspection plate as well as the derby cover bolts to 108 in-lbs.
11. You may now refill the main case with fresh new fluid. Generally shops use lube from a common source instead of retailed cans.
12. Fill in 32 ounces of fluid. Put in the proper amount for your bike's model and year.
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Always remember that it's critical to be certain that you ride your motorcycle with safety. Be certain that you always wear real carbon fiber helmets.