A Big Twin's Powertrain is a non-unitized design. And that is, the gearbox is positioned apart from the engine, meaning the two should work side by side so that it can transfer power. That's where the primary drive, inside that huge aluminum case next to the rider's left boot, comes into play.
As the, the primary drive transfers power from your engine to, eventually, the back wheel. The reciprocating power that's generated through the engine's crankshaft is changed into rotating energy from the moving major chain and sprockets that spin the transmission's input shaft. Once the energy regroups within the transmission it's distributed via the gears and into the secondary drive, which is the belt or chain drive that turns the bike's backside wheel. This is often a simple explanation of a Davidson powertrain, and, basically, each part plays a vital part in running you and your bagger around the road.
Given the fact that powertrain is made up of a series of moving parts, you're going to have to render periodic adjustments to them to make sure they will work properly. In time, movable parts, such as the main drive's sprockets and chain, break. As it degrades, they require adjustment to help maintain correct tolerance. And it's the main driver's multi-row roller chain that must be checked and tweaked once in a while. It's a fairly clear-cut procedure, at the same time, a method that can be done within your garage area or shop.
Most of the action happens inside the inspection window that's reached by taking off the plate placed on by four mounting bolts. You'll need a ruler to make the measurements and a set of essential tools to perform the corrections. To adjust, release the adjusting shoe's 9/16" bolt a couple of turns and move the shoe upwards to tighten the chain or down to loosen.
A great time to examine and fine-tune the main chain is when you have to drain and change the main case lube. Harley recommends its versatile manufactured oil, however, if you already have a preferred brand that's been produced for the primary drive, at all cost, use it. Just make sure no matter what lubricant you choose is specifically for this purpose.
Once the inspection plate is off, you've got a decent look at the chain's rollers and the adjuster shoe, so utilize the time to check them for wear. Take a look at the chain's rollers to find out if they're getting full lubrication, and look the adjuster shoe for cracks and such. Examining and adjusting the primary chain doesn't take long, and when you're finished you'll have one thing of the checklist of things to do on the next long drive. Just be sure to change the inspection plate gasket.
Things You'll Need:
Pipe sealant Pan for Draining T27 Torx T40 Torx 9/16" deep socket Ratchet Ratchet extension Measuring Stick or Ruler
1. Standard maintenance such as adjusting the main chain can be carried out within your own garage area or shop when changing the main oil. Make sure the motorcycle is fixed in an upright position when you begin.
2. One thing to do is to drain the primary case of the old fluid. Once a drain pan is placed underneath the primary, have a T40 Torx to remove the drain plug that's positioned just beneath the derby cover.
3. Leave the used primary fluid to drain into the drain pan. While it empties, you'll be able to check the primary chain to see if it requires tuning.
4. Make use of a T27 Torx socket to get rid of several bolts that keep the primary inspection plate in position. It's recommended that you change the inspection plate gasket before you start to mount the plate.
5. With the inspection plate removed, you can look at the chain's rollers for wear. Also, check them for hints of deterioration. With the transmission in neutral, have the engine spin a few turns to inspect the whole chain.
6. Always note down to readings when measuring the chain. First is with the chain's top run at slack. Second, he raises the ruler against the top run to get rid of the slack and to measure once again. The difference in the two on the chain's tightest point is the chain's slack.
7. Utilize a 9/16" deep socket to adjust the chain's free play. With the chain cold, set the free play from " and 7/8". Right after you have retightened the nut, again, make measurements of the slack to ensure that you have set the proper amount.
8. While the inspection plate is exposed, additionally examine the adjuster shoe that's pressing against the chain's under run. You can see the adjustment nut in the upper right corner.
9. Not like the engine and transmission drain plugs, the O-rings are missing. To make sure it is sealed, apply a little pipe sealant around the bottom edge of the bolt.
10. Soon after you're done clearing off all the oil out of the primary cover, reinstall the primary case drain plug. When already set, slightly twist the bolt's from the inspection plate as well as the derby cover bolts to 108 in-lbs.
11. You may now refill the main case with fresh new fluid. Generally shops use lube from a common source instead of retailed cans.
12. Fill in 32 ounces of fluid. Put in the right amount for your bike's model and year.
As the, the primary drive transfers power from your engine to, eventually, the back wheel. The reciprocating power that's generated through the engine's crankshaft is changed into rotating energy from the moving major chain and sprockets that spin the transmission's input shaft. Once the energy regroups within the transmission it's distributed via the gears and into the secondary drive, which is the belt or chain drive that turns the bike's backside wheel. This is often a simple explanation of a Davidson powertrain, and, basically, each part plays a vital part in running you and your bagger around the road.
Given the fact that powertrain is made up of a series of moving parts, you're going to have to render periodic adjustments to them to make sure they will work properly. In time, movable parts, such as the main drive's sprockets and chain, break. As it degrades, they require adjustment to help maintain correct tolerance. And it's the main driver's multi-row roller chain that must be checked and tweaked once in a while. It's a fairly clear-cut procedure, at the same time, a method that can be done within your garage area or shop.
Most of the action happens inside the inspection window that's reached by taking off the plate placed on by four mounting bolts. You'll need a ruler to make the measurements and a set of essential tools to perform the corrections. To adjust, release the adjusting shoe's 9/16" bolt a couple of turns and move the shoe upwards to tighten the chain or down to loosen.
A great time to examine and fine-tune the main chain is when you have to drain and change the main case lube. Harley recommends its versatile manufactured oil, however, if you already have a preferred brand that's been produced for the primary drive, at all cost, use it. Just make sure no matter what lubricant you choose is specifically for this purpose.
Once the inspection plate is off, you've got a decent look at the chain's rollers and the adjuster shoe, so utilize the time to check them for wear. Take a look at the chain's rollers to find out if they're getting full lubrication, and look the adjuster shoe for cracks and such. Examining and adjusting the primary chain doesn't take long, and when you're finished you'll have one thing of the checklist of things to do on the next long drive. Just be sure to change the inspection plate gasket.
Things You'll Need:
Pipe sealant Pan for Draining T27 Torx T40 Torx 9/16" deep socket Ratchet Ratchet extension Measuring Stick or Ruler
1. Standard maintenance such as adjusting the main chain can be carried out within your own garage area or shop when changing the main oil. Make sure the motorcycle is fixed in an upright position when you begin.
2. One thing to do is to drain the primary case of the old fluid. Once a drain pan is placed underneath the primary, have a T40 Torx to remove the drain plug that's positioned just beneath the derby cover.
3. Leave the used primary fluid to drain into the drain pan. While it empties, you'll be able to check the primary chain to see if it requires tuning.
4. Make use of a T27 Torx socket to get rid of several bolts that keep the primary inspection plate in position. It's recommended that you change the inspection plate gasket before you start to mount the plate.
5. With the inspection plate removed, you can look at the chain's rollers for wear. Also, check them for hints of deterioration. With the transmission in neutral, have the engine spin a few turns to inspect the whole chain.
6. Always note down to readings when measuring the chain. First is with the chain's top run at slack. Second, he raises the ruler against the top run to get rid of the slack and to measure once again. The difference in the two on the chain's tightest point is the chain's slack.
7. Utilize a 9/16" deep socket to adjust the chain's free play. With the chain cold, set the free play from " and 7/8". Right after you have retightened the nut, again, make measurements of the slack to ensure that you have set the proper amount.
8. While the inspection plate is exposed, additionally examine the adjuster shoe that's pressing against the chain's under run. You can see the adjustment nut in the upper right corner.
9. Not like the engine and transmission drain plugs, the O-rings are missing. To make sure it is sealed, apply a little pipe sealant around the bottom edge of the bolt.
10. Soon after you're done clearing off all the oil out of the primary cover, reinstall the primary case drain plug. When already set, slightly twist the bolt's from the inspection plate as well as the derby cover bolts to 108 in-lbs.
11. You may now refill the main case with fresh new fluid. Generally shops use lube from a common source instead of retailed cans.
12. Fill in 32 ounces of fluid. Put in the right amount for your bike's model and year.